Friday, July 25, 2008

Sunday, July 20, 2008

Friday night fellowship and my birthday





Birthday and welcome home shenanigans





Thursday, I arrived. Christopher met me at the airport, and he took me home, where I discovered this beautiful bouquet of flowers he had waiting for me. Isn't that the sweetest? Christopher is the one below in the red shirt making the silly face. Brad is the one in blue. They shocked me with a birthday cake at the restaurant on Friday night (after the AA meeting).

Gratitude

I feel like such a tool saying this, but I must: I have a tremendous sense of gratitude tonight. I don't always feel this way, as I'm not always living in the present (it's getting better, though), but tonight, I experienced such a treat. My friends, Christopher and Brad, had told me that they wanted to take me out to dinner, just the two of them, for my birthday (which was yesterday, but we had our AA meeting and then fellowship last night, so tonight made more sense for something like a birthday celebration). At first, I thought it was kind of odd- their request, that is- because we never do things with just 2-3 people here- it's always at least 5-7. But, I didn't think much of it. And then, when I asked where we were going, Christopher said, "well, I was kind of thinking Pizza Luce.. if that sounds good to you.." and I said, sure, why not, because I like pizza (and, by the way, this is where we had my going away dinner, too). Brad had asked to pick him up at 6 initially, then he called at 6 and asked for 7, and I asked him if I should call Christopher and whether he would also need a ride- he said he didn't know, and that Christopher hadn't returned his call earlier in the day. So at this point, if there was any inkling or suspicion that something might be going on (like a surprise party- which I had been hoping for, shamelessly), I had pretty much realized that nothing fishy was going on and that they were just being their ordinary selves. And, I have to admit, I was feeling a little disappointed after realizing this, as I had been, like I said, SHAMELESSLY hoping for some kind of welcome home surprise party (What? I've never had one before!).  

By the time we arrived at Pizza Luce, I had surrendered my hopes, and was totally content with a low-key evening. But then, of course, as soon as we entered the restaurant, I saw everyone sitting there waiting for us! It was so wonderful- really, it was. I wish I could have shown a bit more excitement, but I was fatigued (jet-lag?) and hungry, so I tried my best. In spite of this, I was truly touched. 

After dinner we went dancing, and boy, was it fun! I haven't had that much fun at the bar in a long time. Now it's almost 4am, I'm not really tired, and I'm getting a bit hungry. haha.. but, it's all good. I have work to do tomorrow before 4pm, so as long as I can put in a few hours, I should be ok. I have a stupid deadline on Monday night that I have to work towards, but I think I should have enough time to skid by. Anyway, I'm gonna get something to snack on now. But, tomorrow, or in the next few days, I will upload more photos of Senegal and my return, and I will continue to blog. In fact, I will continue blogging- indefinitely- as this has been a wonderful way for me to connect with so many people that I don't get to see on a regular basis. So, in other words, continue to stop by and read what's going on in my life, especially as I begin to process what Africa has meant to me, and as I begin to process and write my paper. 

loves,
Ryan

Tuesday, July 15, 2008

continued from previous entry

ok, sorry about that, but i had to let someone get on my computer for a second, so i posted what i had at the moment.

so last Thursday, Vicki left for Guinnea for the weekend. Yemi and I, of course, rejoiced, as the night before she had provoked some more Vicki-drama. For real, she is something else. But, i wont get into that here. suffice it to say its just her same old crap- she has no control over her impulses or her emotions, so if she is pissed, you better duck and cover. Thurs, Fri, Sat, and Sun were total bliss! me and yemi were able to just hang out around the house and chat on the balcony for hours, which we dont do usually because vicki is always out there [and bec of this, yemi and i usually stay in our rooms]

what did we do last weekend? i actually dont remember all that much bec it was pretty relaxing. Saturday, I spent 4 hours at Alousseynou's house for lunch and chat. he's an odd character. for most of the time he is pretty normal, and brilliant, but then he starts talking about this american woman he is obsessed with and suddenly it's like being in Fatal Attraction. seriously, i think he's stalking her. later that afternoon, i went to a wedding because Saida was catering for it and I volunteered to help out [it wasn't altruistic; free food and entertainment were involved!] i'll post pictures of this later.

Sunday was another kickback day, and then Sunday night we invited some friends over for a petite fète [little party]. that was nice. at midnight, everyone had left, and yemi and i went to bed before vicki got in.

Yesterday i finished my ''wolof philosophy'' book [the french book; yes, i'm very proud, indeed] and then i met some interesting characters for a fun, spontaneous afternoon of beachtime shenanigans.

that brings me to the present. gotta go, my credits are expiring

funky French keyboards

haaayyy! i decided to hang out with a friend today in downtown Dakar, but its too damn hot, so we are taking a break in a cyber cafe. the keyboards here are in French style, so things arent where they normally are; so if i leave out punctuation or spell something odd, its because of that

ok, so the last time i wrote was on tuesday, and i believe i was exceptionally tired as a result of being immersed in French for 3 solid days. yes, thats correct. now i remember. therefore, i needed a break. so the next day i went to the beach with yemi and assane. i think earlier in the day i had tried going to a research center called CODESRIA, but they were having a big meeting, so i could not have access to their library. I did, however, find a cool bookstore around the corner and bought an english book, which was actually published by CODRESIA, on the state of social science research in Africa. its been a good book so far. its pretty militant about how social science research has failed africa so far because it has exploited Africa more than help Africa. so now, this book calls for a resurgence of new thinking in social science research to include African perspectives.

Time is going by too fast!

I just realized that it's been a week since I've last blogged. My mom brought this to my attention- thanks momma! Time really is going by too fast, and I feel all I can do is slide along with it and try not to get caught up in the craziness of it all. It never fails, too, that when you're visiting somewhere, people wait until the very last minute to invite you over, etc. So, these last few days are not going to be filled with work- on the contrary, they will be filled with visiting and enjoying the remainder of my time here. That is, of course, if I can avoid feeling too much pressure to do "this and that."

I want to catch you up on the last week, but now I'm rushing to get out the door for a 10am meeting. I am tired, too, because the stray dog downstairs howled all night. But, it's going to be a good day, and I hope you have one, too.

Tuesday, July 8, 2008

really.. I'm tired

The past couple of days have been both great and exhausting. One of my contacts here is an ombudsman (someone who helps two or more parties resolve a conflict- the term was new for me) at the University. Last week he introduced me to one of his students, Alousseynou, who has been by my side ever since. He's been a tremendous help to my research by providing ideas and other important contacts. But, at the same time, this has meant twice the amount of French I was normally speaking/listening and because of this, I really feel like my head is going to explode. I'm happy about it, but yeah, tired.

Yesterday, Alousseynou invited me to an organizational meeting for an upcoming conference/course on peacebuilding in Africa. The course is the same one I mentioned before, I think, that's going to be held in November, at the Baobab Center. It's going to be monumental, and I wish I could be here to witness. Basically, there's a popular peacebuilding program in the US called CONTACT. I think it was developed at U of Mass, Amherst. The premise of this program is that conflicts can be broken down into components- first, there's the individuals and the conflict, and these need to be separated. Then, the conflict can be broken down into three levels: the first level is the actual conflict, the second includes the different interests belonging to each party (e.g., wanting gas prices to be lower), and the third concerns the emotions and needs underlying the interests (e.g., fear, financial insecurity). Supposedly this is a very basic conflict resolution paradigm that is used all over the place with different names, although I think there is something unique to the CONTACT program that I just don't know about, yet. So, the point of this seminar is to develop a French equivalent of the CONTACT program for Francophone Africa, which includes about 16 countries mostly in West Africa.

The meeting, yesterday, was mostly to gain feedback from various stakeholders about the program and how they might improve it before November comes. It lasted for 3+ hours, which I was not expecting, and by the end of it, I was ready for a LONG nap. But, I went home and told Vicki about it and this turned into a passionate discussion about the potential harm that may be caused by activities like these. This requires some context to explain- so, let me first say that Vicki is a hardcore Africanist, which means that she is against any efforts in Africa that do not first take into account an African perspective. Before, when I had never thought about coming to Africa, I didn't know anything about this, but now, as I've read and talked to others, I'm in complete agreeance with Vicki. How does this relate to yesterday's meeting? Well, the conference/course they're going to put on in November is a 10 day course (literally, a course that will culminate in a certificate) for training professionals and students about CONTACT and how to become capable conflict mediators. There are various components to this course, such as how to mobilize others, but the core of it is to teach them this Western-developed method of conflict-resolution. Representatives from each of the 16 Francophone countries in West Africa will attend.

The problem with this approach is that Americans (the directors of Baobab Center) are taking an American developed theory of conflict-resolution and stamping it across Africa without asking Africans for their input. This is insulting and offensive to Africans, I think, and potentially harmful to traditional values and ways of being. Some of these concerns were raised yesterday, although with much greater tact and grace than I'm presenting here, and it was these concerns that spawned the passionate conversation with Vicki because she has known of this kind of stuff happening since the very beginning of colonialism, and, it doesn't seem to be ending any time soon. The African audience members repeatedly asked the question (more or less), "Why haven't you considered the indigenous mechanisms for peacemaking?" And there never really was an adequate response, other than, "yes, thank you for the suggestion," and, "we'll look into it." These weren't the exact words, but the meaning was conveyed. For me, I find it a little too eery that I am here doing research on the traditional mechanisms of peacemaking in Africa. And, because of this, I am also enraged by this lack of concern for indigenous mechanisms because I have learned first-hand what some of these are, and, I think, they could be very useful to explore for everyone (i.e., not just Africans).

Anyway, I could go on and on about this, but what I really wanted to say about yesterday is that I had a spiritual experience (oh dear, yes, I did just write that) while I was sitting there listening. All I can really say to describe it is that everything seemed to come together at once; everything made sense to me at the moment; I felt an odd, almost uncomfortable, no, definitely uncomfortable, feeling of being aware and conscious of the fact that I was exactly where I was supposed to be at that very moment. THERE- that's it. I was struggling to find the words, but I think that last sentence grabs it. I can't underscore the discomfort enough- it was eery, really. But, at the same time, it was also pretty damn cool.

You know what's funny about this, though? I still don't know why any of this is happening. I don't know why I'm here, why I'm doing what I'm doing. It's actually kind of frustrating- no, very frustrating, because I know it's right, but I don't know why, yet. And today, while I was meeting some more new people (I'll explain later), I got downright pissed and asked in my head, "Seriously?!?! Why is any of this necessary? Why am I here?!?!" But, of course, things don't work like that- I won't get my answer if I'm demanding it now. The world doesn't work according to my time, but I wish it did. And you know what, I'm too damn tired to continue writing, even though I have more to say about today. Shit. But I'm feeling good about things, just to be clear. I'm tired, that's all. So, for now, be well. nite nite.

Saturday, July 5, 2008

I choose chocolate and serenity!

I'm such an old fart.. you know I'm turning 26 in a few weeks? July 18th, actually (in case you wanted to throw me a surprise birthday/welcome home party.. *wink wink*). I don't actually feel old, but I AM staying home on a Saturday night, and feeling perfectly ok with it, which makes me feel like I MUST be old. Or maybe not. But wait, I just put on Sade and am eating chocolate, too. DAMN!

No, I'm not old, I'm just taking care of myself. I had the option of going to this big crazy dance party, but it just didn't appeal to me. I had dinner with Vicki, Yemi, and Armin (he's back in Dakar for the night.. picking up his mother at the airport tomorrow and driving back to Touba Couda)- we ate out tonight, it was on Vicki, and it was great. And, all I wanted to do when I got home was talk to my sponsor (which I did), and eat some chocolate. Earlier, I actually wanted to go out, because I was feeling stir-crazy, but now, eh.. it's too much effort. Jeans, fitting shirt, shoes.. why would I want to do all that when I can schleppe around here in my cozy bou-bou and flip-flops? Exactly. And they don't even get the party started here until at least 1am, which is my bedtime anyway. So, no, thank you very much, I choose chocolate and serenity. And Sade. You know, she has really stood the test of time, don't you think? Seriously, talk about some smooth music.. she's your lady. Well, she's mine at least. Really good for hot, sultry weather.

So today, we woke up early and went to the weaving market. Vicki had been telling us about this since we got here, and yes, it was pretty cool to see. Apparently it's been funded by Catholic Charities, and it saved a dying Guinean tradition (Guinea-Bissau is another country in West Africa). The weavers were hard at work when we arrived- I'll try to take pictures of some other weaving to give you an idea what the process looks like. They have these LONG (maybe 5 meters) of several threads, and they use these wooden block things to weave the thread together.. ok, whatever, I can't describe it! I tried, but I'll just take a picture.

After the weaver market, we went grocery shopping. It was fun, but obnoxious, too. I love grocery shopping, but things have changed in our group such that it's not as enjoyable, and in fact, it's downright complicated. You see, when Armin was here, we were doing everything communal, where someone would front the entire shopping bill. Then, at the end of the month, we collected receipts and swapped money to whoever it was owed to so that we each paid the same amount for the whole month's food. But when Armin left, Yemi asserted herself and said that she didn't eat the food that we ate, and so it wasn't fair to pay the same. Ok, I get it. Cool. But there are SOME things that she does eat, like cheese, jam, bread, etc.- just not the extras like snacky food. So, I was cool about her stepping up like that- in fact, I was proud of her. But, and here's the big but, she is too wishy washy about the things that she does like, so that when we went grocery shopping today, I ended up with some things (communal and personal), and she couldn't give me a straight answer about what she would end up eating (out of the communal pile). So it's annoying because I'm fronting the bill, and when it comes time to collect, it is literally going to be like, "so, what did you eat and how much of it?" which is just really obnoxious. Vicki called it "penny-and-diming it" and I agree. It would be so much easier to go communal and then to make sure you eat your portion of whatever is bought. I don't think it's much to ask. But, she hasn't lived with anyone before (she still lives at home), and I don't think she realizes how this agitates group harmony. And if she does, she doesn't care, which is another younthful trait. Which, whatever, it's all good. I know she's doing the best she can with what she has right now, and I'm sure I have annoying quirks, too. But mine aren't AS annoying! hah! right...

Post-grocery shopping adventure, we came home for a bit and I took a nap. Armin rang the doorbell at 2-ish and we welcomed him home for the day. Then, at 4, we met Saida at the fabric market. She, of course, took charge right then and there and got us what we needed/wanted. We were out of there in less than an hour, and that's no small feat in a maze of eager vendors!

That was my day pretty much. I'm now at the end of my Sade record, and I've downed two pieces of chocolate. I am out of words. Oh wait, did I mention the delicious pastry shop (a "Patisserie") we found the other day??? Oh my!!! I think I forgot to tell you! Well, it was fantastic- only a 15 minute walk from home, and it has the best pastry I've found here. I had a little cake thing that was layered with cream-cheesy yummy yummy stuff, a croissant filled with chocolate, and a croissant filled with almond paste. If the French can claim any goodness from being here, it is leaving behind these patisseries. Who cares if it contributes to heart disease and diabetes!

And on that note, I should definitely end this blog entry before I say something really delirious. Sweet dreams to me! yay!

Thursday, July 3, 2008

French

My sister commented on my blog today with a question about my French comprehension and whether I'm dreaming in French yet. I'm not.

But, I had a light-bulb moment the other day when I realized how much my French has improved. I was on the phone setting an appointment with a French speaker, and Vicki overheard the conversation and told me later how dramatically better it (my french) had become since the beginning of this trip. After her saying this, I thought it about some more, and I had this "a-ha!" moment of "yes, it really HAS gotten easier, and better!" I think the interviews have helped a lot, and also hanging out with Assane and his family. And, today, I was translating a book into English and it got to the point where it was actually ENJOYABLE! That, I thought, would NEVER happen. Up to this point, I had hated it because it was so damn tedious looking up every word. But now, I may look up the same amount of words, but I'm comprehending the context and meaning so much more. It's really fun, actually. Anyway, that's cool, and thought I should share- if anything, it's hope for anyone else who thinks it's impossible. I definitely did, at least for me. So, yay!!

ok, the power is out, and my computer battery is about to die, so I better post this now!

crunch time

I am finally writing again! It's been too long. The days here have been going by fast lately, as I'm trying to cram in as much research as possible in the last two weeks. This is good, for me, because I really cannot wait to be home! The heat here is getting pretty obnoxious- each night is like sitting in a sauna. Well, ok, maybe not that bad, but it is pretty humid, and I'm never dry. More importantly though, I just miss people, places, and things. I'm actually checking out WCCO Minneapolis tv station to watch some news. Anyway, blah blah blah, just turned off the WCCO- wasn't doing it for me!

The last couple of weeks have been really interesting in terms of the work I've been doing. I interviewed my first student early last week, and it went really well. He spoke some English, which helped when I got confused with his French. And, he seemed to understand my interview questions throughout, so that was also good news. He was really sweet about it- he invited me over to his apartment (it's actually a large house), where he lives with 15 other students (I think two guys share each room), and when I got there he ran downstairs to the little market to purchase some Fanta soda. He came back, poured me a cup, and we started the interview. It lasted for about 90 minutes. When we were finished, we sort of just hung out for another hour or so, and he introduced me to the other students living there and told them all about my research so that I could interview them as well. Since then, I've been going back there almost every afternoon to interview 1 or 2 more students. Each time I go over there, we all hang out for an hour or so, then I get started with the interview, then we take an hour break, and then I start another interview, and then we hang out for another couple of hours. So, each time is a BIG time commitment, but that's just how it is here- you don't rush things. In the states, participants would be happy to kick you out of their house, but here, it's preferable to build some sense of rapport with them.

Spending all this time at Adama's house has been a learning experience itself, aside from the research. I can't articulate what it is that I'm learning over there, but I imagine that whatever it is (culture?) it will end up seeping through my paper when I write it up, which I think is a good thing. Personally, of course, it's also nice being able to relate and build relationships with these guys. In terms of actual research experiences, it's been a great learning experience for me because I'm finding out that there are problems with my interview protocol. These problems would have been impossible to foresee, however, as I'm only seeing them now in the process of interviewing. For example, there are some questions that confuse some of the guys, and I've been giving some thought about how else I might ask them, and even more important, thinking more clearly about WHY I'm asking them. There's a specific question, for example, that asks, in general, what kinds of conflicts can one experience in daily Senegalese life? The response is typically the same as the statement I give before we begin the interview, which basically gives the context of the types of conflicts I'm interested in (e.g., conflicts within and between families, between friends and strangers, between work colleagues, etc). In other words, they'll say that conflicts are possible in families and in friendships. But, when I ask for specific examples, they struggle to find any. There are a few possibilities for this discrepancy- first, it could be that they don't feel comfortable giving me examples because they might think I'm using this research to show how conflict-ridden they are (which I'm not); second, it could be that they don't remember conflicts well because it is so ingrained in their culture to let go of them (I like this explanation the most); or third, it could be... hmmm... what else... I know I had another explanation for this, but for some reason I'm drawing a blank now. Ah well, you get the point- I don't know why there is a discrepancy between their responses, but it does provide for some interesting follow-up. I might even ask Adama if he knows why.

Oh, that just made me wonder if there's also a difference between those who are more traditional and those who are more Westernized. I thought of this because of Adama, who seems less traditional, also had less difficulty providing examples than those students who were more traditional. Hmm... this seems to support the first hypothesis above. And, I also had one student tell me that he couldn't answer the questions that were directed at his own life and his own experience of conflicts, but that he could answer the more general questions for all Senegalese people. He seemed more traditional, too. So, perhaps the first hypothesis is better supported than the second, but I WANT to believe the second one because it's more interesting from a theoretical standpoint (e.g., culture might affect memory of conflicts to the extent that it is a virtue to live in, and to promote, peace).

The second hypothesis is also supported somewhat by the responses I've gathered from these students, and from my readings, regarding the general culture of peace here. Islam, I found out, actually means PEACE in Arabic. I haven't verified this yet, but that's what one of the students told me yesterday. Also, the Arabic greetings used here (i.e., Asaala Malaakum; Malaakum Salaam = Peace be with you; And may peace be with you) might promote a culture of peace, as well as the Wolof greetings, which come directly after the Arabic greetings, and ask whether you have peace. I've also been fortunate to gather some Wolof proverbs that situate peace as the most important human virtue. The students have shared all of this with me, and they have spoken about peace as if it were so ordinary and common. I'm not sure what to make of this, yet. I haven't spoken with enough people. But, it is supported by what I've read and by the few interviews I've had with professors.

Anyway, that's just some of the stuff I've been doing here with research. This blog is especially for those of you who thought I was just coming here to get adopted by Angelina Jolie, or if my chances were really good, Madonna.

Other than my research, you can see from the photos of Foundiougne that I've been having a nice time. There's really not much to say about Foundiougne- we basically hung out with Assane's family and walked around town most of the time. Saturday it rained most of the day, so we also spent a few hours playing UNO, which was nostalgic. Ate some more fish- it was yummy. Was almost eaten alive by mosquitos on our first night there- then I woke up and lathered myself in repellant. Rode on a motorcycle for the first time ever- that was a lot of fun (I didn't drive, though- too scary). Also rode on one of those horse-carriage thingies- both the motorcycles and the horse-carriages serve as taxis there because there aren't many cars. It's nicer that way, actually; the air isn't polluted like Dakar's and it feels more like a village.

We did have some Vicki-drama the other day.. that kind of sucked, but it's over now. We had a sit-down conversation yesterday with me, Yemi, and Vicki and went over what had happened and what we want from now on. Basically, she got all bent out of shape the other night because no one remembered to tell Saida what to make for dinner, so Saida didn't come. Then, this was combined with Vicki's disappointment that all we did in Foundiougne was hang out and relax. But, you ask, didn't Vicki stay in Dakar? YES! She did, and when she expressed her disapproval, I asked her why it should bother her. We parted ways after that and didn't talk for the rest of the night. It was like the cold-war in here, or in French, la guerre-froid! Aside from this, she had been picking on Yemi for the past couple of weeks because she thought that Yemi wasn't doing enough work. But in reality, Yemi's been working pretty hard, it just doesn't look like it because she's able to do most of her work on her computer or by studying 100 year old French documents (i.e., not through interviews, like most of us). So in our meeting yesterday, Yemi let her have it- respectfully and assertively. I was proud of her. I made my own comments, and suggested a few things for the remaining time here. Now, things are back to normal and we're living peacefully again. In short, we just had to re-negotiate our boundaries. It was a good learning experience, indeed!

Ok, that's all for now. I was using this blog to take a break from the French translation I've been immersed in this morning. But now, it's time to get back to it, as much as I'd rather not. So, hope everyone's well out there in blog-o-sphere. Thinking of you.